Shopping at France’s Markets: Where to find the best markets and other tips

by Julie Blakley on February 23, 2009

by Julie Blakley | February 23rd, 2009


One of my favorite parts about traveling to France is shopping in the plethora of indoor and outdoor markets throughout the country. From specialty markets like the fish market in Marseilles or flea markets in Paris, to the community-based produce markets throughout France, there is never a lack of great finds at these treasure-troves of gastronomic and antique delights.

While there are many people who love searching through the bric-a-bracs (knick-knacks), antiques, household wares and more at the many flea markets in France (or marches des puces), I’ve always been a bigger fan of the food markets. The greatest part about these markets? Not only do they happen in almost every village throughout France, they are full of regional specialties, the freshest produce, cheese and meats, and always carry seasonal items. What treasures you’ll find at these markets will depend on where you find yourself during what season. However, no matter what region of France during what season, you are sure to find a wealth of great items.

Tips for Shopping in Markets

Honestly there is little advice to be given about shopping in French markets. Once you find yourself surrounded by the stalls of freshly picked heads of lettuce, huge cheese wheels, hanging salamis, bins of olives and more you’ll have little trouble figuring out what to do. If you are looking for clothing and other wares, you may want to check out how to maximize your market shopping, but below are a few of my tips for getting the most out of your trip to the markets in France:

  • Go early. The best stuff sells out fast and you can avoid crowds, parking problems by showing up towards the beginning of the market.
  • Bring a basket or canvas bags. While many of the vendors have plastic grocery bags they can put your stuff in these are not only bad for the environment, but also not very practical to carry your purchases around in. A big basket (I personally like this basket) will allow you to buy lots of goodies and carry then comfortably.
  • Bring Cash, especially smaller bills. As with markets in the U.S. the easiest way to navigate your way through these markets is with appropriate change.
  • Walk around the market at least once before you purchase anything. Many of the merchants have similar or almost identical products and scoping out everything that’s there will help you find the best prices.
  • Take advantage of the samples. This will save you not only from ending up with a big hunk of cheese you don’t like, but you can also make an entire meal out of the free, delicious samples.
  • Don’t be afraid to haggle. This is of course much easier to do if you speak French, but if you feel like something is overpriced (or you see a vendor next door with lower prices) try to negotiate. This of course does not always work, but it’s always worth a shot. (Don’t be too aggressive, however, as you may hear a sling of French curse words if you are)
  • Make a picnic. One of my favorite things to do when traveling in France is to spend the morning at the market, picking up ingredients for a delicious and affordable lunch. Grab a baguette, some cheese and meat (maybe even pate), fresh produce and a bottle of wine and you’ll be eating like King or Queen all while staying on budget.

Famous Markets in France


While there are plenty of fabulous markets throughout France in both big cities and small country villages, there are a few especially great markets in France that are well-known for both their size and the amazing selection of items found there. Here is a brief run-down on some of France’s most famous markets.

Northern France

Paris

The great thing about the markets in Paris is that because the is the cultural and commerce capital in France, it is easy to find products from all over France at the great markets. Vendors often drive hundreds of miles to sell their products at the markets in Paris. Almost every neighborhood in France has its own market, at all of which you’ll find fresh produce, meats, cheeses etc. There are over 70 outdoor markets in France, all of which are sure to please, but I have a few of my favorites.

Richard Lenoir—This market in the 11eme arrondissement is one of the city’s largest and it is especially big and lively on Sundas when you’ll find performers singing and playing music among the vendors and general hubbub. Here you’ll find all kinds of foods—from the freshest meats, cheeses and produce to international foods and flavors like Middles Eastern cuisines and Spanish paellas. Those who want to pick up some hot new duds will also find leather good, clothes, lingerie, shoes and textiles.

Thursdays and Sundays
Marais/Bastille, 11eme
Metro: Bastille

Marche des Puces, St. Ouen de Clignacourt—This huge flea market located on the outskirts of Paris is the biggest and best flea market in France, featuring almost 3,000 stalls that sell everything from antiques to cheap clothing. For those avid antique hunters, deal seekers and rummage rats, there are definitely some excellent finds at this sprawling market. A knack for treasure hunting and a little know-how will help you navigate through these sprawling stalls, but with a little pateience and a lot of luck, you can sort through enough junk to find some truly amazing finds.

Sat-Mon 9 am-7pm
Metro: Porte de Clignancourt

>>Get more tips and learn more about the gigantic flea market, Les Puces de Paris Saint Ouen or get more tips on shipping furniture and check out the Fashion at the St. Ouen Flea Market

Saumur–This quaint town along the banks of the Loire River is home to not only one of the Loire Valley’s Castles, it also has a great weekly market on Saturday mornings. The Loire Valley is frequently called the “garden of France” for its fertile soil, great wines and plethora of great fresh produce, which is why this market is especially great. Saumur is also known for its locally grown mushrooms and is the home of the famous (and one and only) Cointreau factory.

Strasbourg—If you find yourself spending Christmas in France (or even just December in France), then you should not miss taking a trip to the amazing Christmas market in Strasbourg. The oldest and largest Christmas market in the entire world, this market takes over the city of Strasbourg through the month of December, complete with beautiful lights and decorations, vendors selling treats like vin chaud and cookies, Christmas decorations and wares and plenty of great gifts for Francophiles.

QuiberonWhile this Breton town located on a thin peninsula jetting out into the Atlantic Ocean may not have the biggest or best market in the region, it will always be one of my favorite markets to shop at. My great-grandparents owned a vacation home in this picturesque town on the Brittany coast (they are both buried here) and I have many great summer memories involving eating fresh gauffres (waffles) on the boardwalk and shopping for fresh fish and flowers in the weekly market which takes place on Saturday mornings. Fresh seafood and produce is always abound and in the fall and winter months you can find freshly shucked oysters.

Southern France

Most of my favorite market experiences in France have been Provence during the summer months. Here you will find markets full of fresh lavender and freshly milled soaps, amazing herbes de provence, great produce, and high-quality meats and cheeses. If you find yourself in France in July or August, you will be hard pressed not to at least accidentally run into a great market.

Isle-sur-SorgueThis compact medieval provencal town is built on the islands of five branches of the Sorgue River, whose source is a spring at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. This lovely town is worth visiting on its own for its lovely Venice-like feel with bridges, canals and lots of water, but it is also home to a sprawling and great market that takes place on Sundays. Here you will find mostly local produce, meats and cheese, though there are vendors selling typical Provence inspired wares—tablecloths, antiques, soaps etc. As you cross the branches of the Sorgue River and shop in market stalls alongside giant moss covered water wheels, you’ll be glad you stopped in this little town.

>>Read more about Markets at Isle Sur la Sorgue

Carpinteras—This little town located near Arles (the once-home of painter Victor Hugo) is situated in the melon producing region of southern France. Especially in the summer months, this Friday morning market is overflowing with great local produce—especially the lovely, little French melons. In the winter, this market is known for its selection of truffles (dubbed “black gold” in France) as truffles are found in the region.

Nice—While the city of Nice has many different markets in the various neighborhoods, it is most famous for its amazing flower market along the Cours Selaya, which happens nearly every morning. For the best selection, get to this market especially early—vendors arrive around 6 a.m., and you should try to make it to the market by 8 or 9 am. While the beautiful bouquets of flowers are certainly a main draw at this market, you’ll also find antiques here on Mondays and fresh produce, food items and soaps on the other days of the week.

>>If you want a budget place to stay so you have more money to shop at the market, check out the Best Hostels in Nice.

MarseilleThe greatest part about shopping in the markets of this major French port city is the sheer diversity of things you’ll find. Marseilles is one of France’s most culturally diverse cities and in addition to large immigrant communities, this city has long seen influences from northern Africa and other Mediterranean countries. Today, these influences can be seen in the Moroccan style souk-like market stalls, complete with plenty of exotic spices, foods and flavors. Marseilles is also famous for its amazing daily fish market, which takes place along the old port (called Le Panier). Get there early, as fishermen and fish vendors are unloading the freshest catch for the hoards that will descend to purchase fresh seafood along the water.

Perigueux—This capital of the Dordogne River valley in southwestern France has a great market, where vendors set up stalls along the narrow, cobble stoned streets on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Because the food from this region of France is some of my favorite, so are the markets in this region. Here, alongside the fresh produce and cheeses you will also find foie gras, great pate and duck. The medieval architecture in this quaint town set in the gorgeous Dordogne River valley also makes for a nice backdrop while you shop (or you can always stop for a snack at the market after you finish canoeing the Dordogne River).

{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }

Johnnie Curwen February 26, 2009 at 12:37 am
Corner

If you’re having a French Villa Holiday on the Cote d’Azur, don’t miss the Provencal covered market in the Old Town of Antibes. It is a fabulous experience 5 days a week, (tues-sat) brimming with fresh produce from the surrounding region.

One of the joys of Holiday Home Rental in France is cooking for yourselves and taking advantage of the superb local produce on offer at the markets all over the Country.

Corner

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