Visiting Belle Ile: Brittany’s largest island

First named the “Beautiful Island” by Greek sailors, as its names might suggest, Belle Ile is in fact one of the France’s most beautiful islands. With stunning cliffs, quaint seaside hamlets and pastel colored maritime homes, green countryside and jagged rocky coastlines, Belle Ile’s beauty has long inspired sailors, authors like Flaubert and Dumas and painters like Claude Monet and Matisse. Located off the Brittany coast and accessed by ferries leaving from Quiberon (which about 14 km away), Belle Ile’s population swells nearly ten fold during the peak tourist season summer in France, but as Brittany’s largest island, visitors should find plenty of space to explore and get away from the crowds.

Because of warmer ocean currents that flow by Belle Ile, the island tends to experience warmer temperatures and has Mediterranean plants growing on the island which are not found on the nearby coastline. You will also find plenty of places to indulge in delicious, fresh seafood, crepes, cider and other delights from the Regional Cuisine of Brittany.

Areas of Belle Ile

Measuring about 17 km by 9 km, Belle Ile is subdivided into 4 communes or areas:

Le Palais

The principal town of the island and access point (the ferries from Quiberon dock here); Le Palais is generally the launching point for explorations of the island. The dramatic Vauban citadel distinguishes the port here, and the historic citadel houses dominate the port here. Le Palais is the busiest and most populated town on the island, but with only a few thousand full-time residents, you’ll be amazed at how fast you can be in the countryside of the island from the town center.

Sauzon

Known for its pretty and colorful houses and large port, Sauzon is located on Belle Ile’s celebrated southwestern coast, where you’ll find spectacular rock formations and the famed Grotte de l’Apoticaire (apothecaries’ cave), where waves crash in from two sides and Pointe des Pulains (point of foals). There are also many trails that start from this seaside town, making it a worthwhile stop on any trip to Belle Ile.

Bangor

Bangor is most famous for the lighthouse that is located here. Known as one of the most impressive lighthouses in France, it was constructed in 1935 and sits 84 m above the sea below. Bangor is located on the cote sauvage or “wild coast” side of the island and is known for its dramatic scenery like the famous aiguilles (needles). The rocky coast and Donnant beach (where swimming can be dangerous, but has amazing surf) greatly inspired Monet, who did series of paintings of this part of Belle Ile.

Locmaria

This little village located close to the rocky spires of the Pointe des Poulains, Locmaria is a small rural maritime village that is distinguished by the white Notre Dame de Bois Tord chapel

What to do/see on Belle Ile

Hike the Coastal footpath

If you are looking for a challenging and beautiful adventure while visiting Belle Ile, you may be interested in walking the 95 km circuit that follows the entire islands coastline. Although this is clearly too far to do in one day, portions of this trail can also be great day hikes and is a nice way to see the cote sauvage section of the island.

Rent bikes or a motor scooter

Although you can rent a car on Belle Ile for your visit, the island is small enough that you may be better off forgoing the car and renting a bike or motor scooter and seeing the island that way. From Le Palais, you’ll find plenty of places that rent out both bikes and motor scooters for about €15-€35 per day. This is not only a cheap, easy way to get around the island, but it’ll also allow you to take in the panoramic views as you scooter or bike from place to place/.

Visit the Vauban Citadel

This star-shaped fortifications of this citadel is what will first stand out to you about this fortified structure (which served as a prison for famous revolutionaries and succession of state enemies including Ben Bella of Algeria), but you will also be also be astounded at the size. Built along stylish and ordered lines by the great fortress-builder, Vauban, it is startling in size – filled with doorways leading to mysterious cellars and underground passages, endless sequences of rooms, dungeons and deserted cells.

Open daily: April–June, Sept & Oct 9.30am–6pm; July & Aug 9am–7pm; Nov–March 9.30am–noon & 2–5pm; €6.10)

Go to the beach

If you are looking to soak up some rays and hit the beach on Belle Ile, you have surprisingly few options when it comes to finding a good swimmable beach. Because much of the coast line on Belle Ile is marked by rocky cliffs, there are only a few places where visitors can find a beach to hang out at. On the sheltered Port Kerel there is the 2 km Plage des Grands Sables, which is the biggest and busiest beach on the island.

>>Read more about the Best Beaches in France

Go camping

There are about 10 campsites scattered around Belle Ile, which are open from about mid April or early May through September or October. With beautiful views and plenty of places to pitch a tent and enjoy comforts like showers, restrooms and picnic tables, camping can be a great way not only to enjoy the natural beauty of Belle Ile, but also save a few bucks.

Check out the Cote Sauvage

Any trip to Belle Ile is not complete without a visit the Cote Sauvage (wild coast). With rocky “needles’, sea caves, and rough Atlantic waters, you definitely should not miss seeing this dramatic and ominous looking part of the coastline. For impressionist fans (or those who have paid a visit to the Musee d’Orsay in Paris), you may also want to see the coastline that inspired Monet’s series of paintings.

Take a walking/cycling tour

The local tourist office in Le Palais sells both walking and cycling tours that will allow you to be guided around the island. If you are just hanging out on Belle Ile for the day or weekend, this can be a great way to hit up the island’s best sights.

Getting to Belle Ile

Obviously as Belle Ile is an island located about 17 km off the Brittany coast, the only way to get to the island is by ferry. While you can ferry your car to Belle Ile, this is not recommended. Not only will you have to shell out quite a bit of cash to get your car to the island (transporting a small car costs nearly €120 plus passenger fares), but the island is small enough that you really won’t need your car. There are also enough car/scooter and bike rental places in the island where you can rent transportation for much less.

From Quiberon

The shortest crossing to Belle Ile is from Quiberon. SMN operates car/passenger ferries year-round, which take about 45 minutes and drop passengers off at Le Palais. There are also fast passenger ferries which take only 20 minutes and run in July and August. There is also a fast passenger ferry which runs from Quiberon to Sauzon from April through mid September. There are 5 crossings per day year round and up to 13 crossings per day in July and August. Ferries cost about €25.

>>Planning on hanging out in Quiberon before or after you head to Belle Ile? Read more about Visiting Quiberon

From Vannes

Navix operates a ferry from Vannes to Belle Ile between May through mid September. The ferry ride takes just over an hour and costs about €20.

From Lorient

In July and August, SMN operates a fast passenger-only ferry once a day to Sauzon. The ride takes 1 hour, runs once daily and costs about €15.

Where to Stay on Belle Ile

As you may have read above, there about 10 different campsites scattered around Belle Ile, which can be a great budget accommodation option while visiting Belle Ile.

For those who want a rough over their heads and don’t want to shell out a whole lot of cash, there is a hostelling international hostel located on the island. The Auberge de Jeunesse Haute Boulogne is located just north of the citadel in Le Palais.

For those looking for a higher-end experience, the Vauban citadel houses a lavish and chic hotel, which has rooms that range from €120-€450 per night.

The Le Goeland hotel (seagull) in Le Palais has affordable beds, a lively bar/brasserie downstairs and is a reliable choice.

If you are one who prefers to stay in bed and breakfasts in France (rather than hotels in France or hostels in France), then you will also find a plethora of chamber d’hôte and gites around the island, which offer up a comfortable “in home” experience at usually very affordable prices.

Photo Credits: Les aiguilles , Sauzon, bike on belle ile