Visiting Mont Saint Michel

Considered to be one of the wonders of the western world, Mont Saint Michel is one of France’s most iconic attractions—it is both globally famous and one of the most visited attractions in the country. Mont Saint Michel is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it is also visited by more than 3 million people annually. In fact, the mass numbers of people who come to visit this unique site is not new. Pilgrims have been traveling to the site since medieval times. Located on a rocky tidal island (meaning it’s an island at high tide but not at low tide when it is connect via a land bridge to the mainland) about one km from the Normandy coast at the mouth of the Couesnon River near Avaranaches, about 150 miles from Paris.

History of Mont Saint Michel

6th-7th Centruies: Mont Tombe, which was the name of the islet until after the first monastery was contructed in the 8th century, and was used sometimes as a military stronghold for Roamno-British troops.

708: According to legend, the archangel Michael appeared to St. Aubert, the bishop of Avaranches, and instructed him to build a church on the rocky tidal island. After ignoring the order from the angel, legend has it that the archangel Michael burned a hole in the bishop’s skull, encouraging him to build the church.

October 16, 709: A small church built by the Bishop of Avaranches is dedicated to St. Michael.

966: A community of Benedictines settles on the rocky islet at the request of the Duke of Normandy. Around the year 1000, these Benedictines also built the pre-Romanesque style church.

11th Century: The Romanesque abbey and church was built over a set of crypts where the rocks comes to an apex at its highest point. The first monastery buildings were also constructed along the north wall of the structure.

12th Century: The Romanesque buildings continues to be extended to the west and south on the tiny island.

13th Century: In the wake of his conquest of Normandy, King of France Philip Augustus gave a large sum of money to continue the construction on Mont Saint Michel—enabling the building of the Gothic parts of the church and monastery—crowned by the cloister and refectory.

14th Century: As the the 100 years war wages, a set of military constructions were set up to protect Mont Saint Michel, which enabled it to hold out against a siege lasting 30 years.

Middle Ages: The original Romanesque church, which had deteriorated and was breaking down, was replaced by the Gothic, flamboyant style chancel in 1421. It was also during this time that Mont Saint Michel became a center of religion and intellectual pursuits. This great spiritual and intellectual center, was one of the most important places of pilgrimage for the Medieval occident. For nearly one thousand years men, women and children went there by roads called “paths to paradise” hoping for the assurance of eternity, given by the Archangel of Micheal, the patron saint of the island.

At the same time as the abbey was developing, a village grew during Middle Age. It flourished on the south-east side of the rock surrounded by walls dated for the most part from the Hundred Years war.

French Revolution: The abbey was turned into a prison during the dark years surrounding the French Revolution and Empire. Deteriorating significantly during this time, the abbey badly needed restoration around the turn of the 19th century.

1966: With the celebration of the monastery’s 1000th anniversary, a religious community moved back to what used to be the abbatial dwellings, perpuating prayer and welcome the original vocation of this place.

1979: designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site

2001: Friars and sisters from “Les Fraternités Monastiques de Jerusalem” have been ensuring a spiritual presence since the year 2001.

Today: Mont Saint Michel remains one of France’s most visited attractions in France, with about 3.5 million people coming to the island every year.

Places to Visit at Mont Saint Michel

At the entrance of this medieval town is the ancient Burgher’s Guardroom, which now serves as the Tourist Office. After going through the Boulevard Gate and then the King’s Gate fortified with its portcullis, you will find the “Grande Rue” or main street with its museums, shops and houses dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The parish church consecrated to St. Pierre, the patron saint of fishermen, is a small edifice from the 15th and 16th centuries.

The Abbey

The Mount consecrated to St Michel in 708 was one of the first places of cult worship for the Archangel Michel. The abbey presents a big panorama of the medieval architecture from the XI to the XVI centuries.

The abbey is open every day except Jan. 1, May 1and the Dec. 25.

• From May 2-Aug 31 : 9am to 7 pm, last admission at 6 pm
• Sept. 1-April 30 : 9.30 am to 6pm, last admission at 5 pm.
• Dec. 24 and 31 : last entrance at 4 pm & closing time at 5pm.

Self guided tour or one hour guided tour . Pets are not allowed in the abbey (allowed in the village). Tickets available at the entrance of the abbey only

Rates :

• individual : 8.50 euros ; from 18 to 25 years old : 5 euros ; less than 18 years : free of charge
• group (20 persons) : 6,50 euros
• tour operators : 6,50 euros
• Rate for 35 pupils : 30 euros ; one bus driver for free, one leader for free for each group of fifteen pupils, 6,50 € for additional leader

Go to Mass

While I may not exactly classify myself as a practicing Catholic, I definitely come from French Catholic stock, which is reason enough to check out one of the masses that still happens at this cultural site.

Mass is celebrated in the Parish church every day except Monday at 12.15, on Sunday at 11.30; no entrance fee. You have to be at the entrance of the abbey at 12.00 and on Sunday at 11.15.

Other masses at 7.00am during the week (08.00am on Saturday and Sunday) and 6.30pm.You have to be 10 minutes before at the entrance of the abbey. No mass on Sunday afternoon and on Monday.

The Village

In the village that wraps around the narrow cobble stone streets of Mont Saint Michel, visitors will find a collection of touristy shops, restaurants and even a few hotels. There are 3 hotels within the walls and 3 other at the entrance to the causeway that will cost you less money.

The Museums

Archeocope: This museum allows visitors to learn more about the construction and history of this sacred monument.

Museum of History: A museum featuring old collections of weapons, painting, sculptures and more. It also gives history on the prisons and dungeons of Mont Saint Michel as well as allowing visitors to peer from a 19th century periscope over the Bay.

Maritime and Ecology Museum: Discover more about the tides, the bay and maritime character of Mont Saint Michel.

Tiphaine’s House: Tour the 14th century residence that Bertrand Duguesclin had built in 1365 for his wife Tiphaine (furniture, paintings, tapestries).

The Tides at Mont Saint Michel

Situated in an immense bay and only becoming an island during high tide, it is easy to say that dramatic tide have long influenced Mont Saint Michel. The tides are so accentuated in the Mont Saint Michel Bay. The highest tides take place 36 to 48 hours after the full and new moons. In fact, the highest tides in continental Europe take place at Mont-Saint-Michel, up to 15 meters difference between low and high water. During top of the spring tides, the sea goes out 15 km from the coast and comes in again very quickly. However, the high “spring tides” that do cut off Mont Saint Michel from the mainland occurs only 4.5 hours after the start of the rising tide every two weeks.

While a sea wall protects the causeway leading to the islet and is never submerged underwater, some of the parking lots do become submerged during these high tides every few weeks, so make sure you are aware of the times of the tide and where you leave your car.

Getting to Mont Saint Michel

Mont Saint Michel is located near the Normandy/Brittany frontier on France’s Northern coast about 150 miles from Paris.

By Car

From Paris: A11 Auoroute towards Chartres-Le Mans. Exit Fougeres towards Mont Saint Michel

From Brittany: A13 Autoroute to Rouen and Caen and then use A84 to Le Mont Saint Michel.

By Train

From Paris you can take the TGV to Rennes, about 55 km south of Mont St. Michel. The Les Courier Bretons bus makes the 75-minute transfer to Mont-St-Michel several times a day.
The train from Rennes takes you as far as Pontorson, 9km from Mont St. Michel. You can take bus #15 to Saint Michel from the station.

By Plane

While most visitors to Mont Saint Michel will come from Paris, it is possible to fly into the Rennes airport, which is located about 75 km away. There are several flights per day to many other French towns from this airport, with 70 destinations and connections.

The Dinard Pieurtuit international airport in Saint Malo is located about 70 km from Mont Saint Michel and has flights to London’s Stansted airport and the Channel islands.

Where to Stay

If you want to stay in or very close to Mont Saint Michel, there are a few different hotels located both within the walls on the rocky islet and at the entrance to the causeway. However, keep in mind that these hotels will likely be more expensive (high demand and proximity). With so many tourists in the village during the day, you are probably better off skipping the overpriced hotels on the islet and opting to stay nearby in a Brittany or Normandy town and visiting Mont Saint Michel as a day trip.

Hotels at the entrance of the causeway

Hotel FORMULE VERTE**
tel : 02 33 60 14 13 – fax : 02 33 60 14 44
(open from the 7th of February till the 10th of November and from the 19th of December till the 2nd of January)

e-mail : stmichel@le-mont-saint-michel.com
website : le-mont-saint-michel.com
45 rooms from 45-60 €, menus from 13,50 € and carte, 500 seats.

Hotel SAINT AUBERT**
tel : 02 33 60 08 74 – fax : 02 33 60 35 67
e-mail : hotel@saint-aubert.com
website : www.lemontsaintmichel.info
27 rooms from 60 €, menus from 12 till 35 € and carte, 150 seats.

Hotel MOTEL VERT**
tel : 02 33 60 09 33 – fax : 02 33 60 20 02
(open from the 7th of February till the 10th of November)
e-mail : stmichel@le-mont-saint-michel.com – website : le-mont-saint-michel.com
112 rooms : motel from 39.40 till 48.40 € – 2 pers, hotel from 58 till 73 € – 2 pers
menus from 13,50 € and carte, 500 seats.

Hotels inside the walls

Hotel Le DUGUESCLIN**
tel : 02 33 60 14 10 – fax : 02 33 60 45 81
(open from the end of march till the beginning of November)
e-mail : hotel.duguesclin@wanadoo.fr –
website : www.hotelduguesclin.com
10 rooms from 69 till 84 €, menus from 18 till 36 € and carte, 200 seats.
menus for the groups from 16 €

Hotel DU MOUTON BLANC**
tel : 02 33 60 14 08 – fax : 02 33 60 05 62
e-mail : hotel@lemoutonblanc.fr
website : www.lemontsaintmichel.info
15 rooms from 90 to 120 €, breakfast 9 €, menus from 15 till 28 € and carte, 300 seats.

Hotel LA VIEILLE AUBERGE**
tel : 02 33 60 14 34 – fax : 02 33 70 87 04
e-mail : lavieilleauberge-montsaintmichel@wanadoo.fr
website : www.lavieilleauberge-montsaintmichel.com
Restaurant, menu and carte, brasserie and pancake bar.
11 rooms from 80 till 155 €, breakfast : 11 €.

Photo credits: top photo thanks to Kiki Folletosa flickr, second photo thanks to Tiny Owl’s flickr